Swimming with Dolphins

When my friend suggested that we swim with dolphins on our trip to Kaikoura, I almost balked at the idea. Alongside boyfriends buying you teddy bears, splashing around with the ocean's gentle critters was way up there in the cheesiness stakes in my opinion. At the risk of damaging my ego, I now admit that swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura is one of the most magical things I've ever done and I'm forever grateful that my friend persuaded me to go.


Situated on the stunning East coast of the South Island, Kaikoura (meaning "meal of crayfish") is a tiny village whose shores are awash with huge wads of glistening seaweed. With its snow-capped mountains in the distance and bright murals adorning the walls, it exudes the air of a fairytale town and one would not be surprised if mermaid were to emerge from the sea.

We decided to stay at the YHA Kaikoura Maui hostel, which is just outside the main town centre and sits opposite the shores of the lapping sea. It's a cute cosy hostel with a very relaxed vibe and excellent value for money.

We organised our trip with Dolphin Encounter through the friendly staff at the YHA. We awoke the next day to find that the sky was filled with dark looming clouds and I scorned my poor friend for making me part with my hard earned cash. Part of me was praying that the trip would be cancelled but when we arrived at the Encounter centre it was not to be so. In spite of a sea-sick weather warning, enthusiastic guests were waiting in line, happily purchasing sickness-prevention tablets from over-zealous staff.

Too soon, we were all lead through to the back of the building where we were kitted out in an all-over-wetsuit, and feeling like eel-man from Scooby Doo, we were lead into the back room where we sat to watch a video about how to interact with the dusky dolphins:

Point 1: Strictly no touching!

Point 2: To get their attention, look them in the eye whilst spinning in circles, making high pitched noises.

I couldn't wait to put this into practice.

Out at sea the grey clouds thickened as the swell bobbed us up and down. Luckily the boat was quite roomy and sturdy and with the distraction of the albatrosses, I managed to successfully keep my breakfast down.

Once the right spot was located, I felt a rush of excitement as hundreds of black blobs and fins darted past the boat. We were given a float and on the blow of a horn we entered the water from a sitting position at the back of the boat. A second blow would indicate that we should return.

Immediately upon entering the water hundreds of dashing dolphins appeared before my snorkel. Anxious to get the most out of my experience, I began to make noises (which were akin to a monkey being attacked) whilst catching the dolphins eyes and forcing my flippers to spin me around in circles. Much to my sheer delight they loved it! Suddenly I had two calves playfully swimming by my side in a continual loop and after they'd zoomed off more followed.

After roughly half an hour of this erratic behaviour, I sadly faced up to the fact that my throat couldn't handle any more screeching and that my indulgent spinning had in fact left me feeling quite green. I boarded the boat where the crew had a good supply of sick buckets but with only a short journey back I was able to hang on to my food.

The whole experience left me quite overwhelmed. The sun eventually broke through that day but rain should not put you off, as the trip was enjoyable in spite of this. So next time you're in Kaikoura, slip on your flippers and go for a dip with the dolphins.

For more information about Dolphin Encounter Kaikoura and pricing, visit www.dolphin.co.nz/kaikoura

YHA Kaikoura Maui can be booked at www.yha.co.nz or by calling 0800 278 299.

Ride of the Rings

"So, Sue?" I asked with a quiver in my voice. "This Ride of the Rings trip is set in Paradise (the actual name of the place!) and takes you to the stunning movie locations of the Lord of the Rings?".

"Yes" she replied. "And if you're lucky, you may get to ride a horse that starred in on one of the films".

It was the famous horses that clinched if for me and with that in mind, I went off to buy an autograph book that would be big enough to fit a muddy hoof print.

Return transport from Queenstown was provided by a friendly bus driver called Trevor. After a quick stop in Glenorchy to pick up some hard hats and boots, we were driven to a large field with tall glossy horses and were met by two guides. After working out our riding abilities (totally crap to Bronco Bill) we were assigned horses and helped on to our furry mounts. To my sheer delight, I was on a horse called Red who had been in Return of the King. I continually patted his neck and giggled at him as he eyed me cautiously out of the corner of his big watery eye.

Before long, our guide Megan began to lead the way on a huge black horse called Boris. As we set off, she told us that our horses would form a line of natural order. "Red likes to be in front" she told us. "Merlin likes to be in the middle and Pip… well Pip has a mind of his own." She stated as Pip wandered off down the wrong track.

Red did like to be up front, just in reach of Boris's bum which he slyly nipped and then was whipped in the face by Boris's burly tail. It was then I discovered that these gallant horses were actually more like kindergarten kids than the sophisticated mammals I thought they were.

Their childish ways included eating mud, (in fact eating anything in sight off the floor), if one peed, they all peed and being scared by monsters (trees stumps). Luckily, they were a lot easier to control than a bunch of five year olds! Entering a beech forest (or the golden woods of Lothlorien) was a welcome relief from the hot sun that beat down from a cloudless sky. Shards of light poked through the branches and created a wonderful fairytale like setting. As Megan gave us a continual commentary about the Lord of Rings scenes we were able to admire our surroundings whilst walking at a peaceful pace.

Coming up out of the forest, we were met with a truly breathtaking view. Stretching out for miles, soft swirls of turquoise water, flowed and wound amongst a white sandy bed of the Dart River whilst towering pines and snowcapped mountains (or the Wizard's Vale and the mighty peak of Methedras) stood proudly in the background. It's an extremely special place where orcs, wizards and talking trees could easily exist. Heading back into the beech forest, Megan talked to us about the flora and fauna and more interestingly, began to reveal the secret antics of the actors whilst on location. Red lowered his ears in disapproval as she exposed the doings of his famous fellow co-workers!

The whole trip was amazing from start to finish. The beautiful drive to Glenorchy, the hour and a half horse ride in true Paradise, the professional guides, and not forgetting the lollies that were given as a treat at the end!

Dart Stables have many various trips available. You can book all of these through both Central and Lakefront YHA in Queenstown. Check out their website for more information: www.dartstables.com

Adventure Walks

When a company called Adventure Walks invited me on one of their trips I could hardly contain my excitement. Their slogan ‘see paradise, not people’, evoked images of stunning scenery, lush forest, crystal clear lakes and fairies dancing on lilies. So when my housemate who, unlike me, is an experienced walker mentioned ‘gators’ I became slightly concerned.

“But I thought they only lived in Australia? Do you think they’ll bite me?”

When she told me she was referring to protective gear that you strap onto the bottom of your legs, and not the scaly creatures with big teeth that live in rivers, I have to say I was quite relieved. With this in mind, I made a wise decision to head to the experts, Outside Sports (Queenstown), who kitted me out with all the essential gear to survive a night in the wilderness.

I was picked up early the next morning by our guide, Andy, and we headed off to Te Anau where we would begin our trip to Lake McIvor and meet up with our group of 10. By the time we arrived, huge dark clouds floated menacingly above us and a storm was forming over our destination.

With that in mind, Andy had several alternatives up his sleeve. A quick decision was made to do the Back Valley track and head out to Hope Arm Hut where we would camp next to the beautiful Lake Manapouri. Once we’d decided what to do, the weather miraculously cleared up and we were able to do a fifteen minute flight in a small floater plane over Fiordland National Park and were dropped off on a remote beach.

After a good fat lunch of cheese and ham sandwiches, we began our trek. It was an easy walk but bearing in mind you have to carry a big rucksack with tents, sleeping bags and food, you do need to be reasonably fit. We walked for around 3 or 4 hours through lush shaded forest, whilst looking out for deer and wild pigs.

The rain set in just as we reached our destination so we quickly popped up our tents. By the time the heavy rain came we were snuggled into the cosy Hope Arm hut cooking steaks and drinking wine.

In the morning we were greeted by clear blue skies so we spent some time on the tranquil shores of the lake then tucked into a big breakfast of sausages and beans washed down with tons of coffee. After this we headed off into the forest for the next part of the trip. As we walked, steam rose from thick green moss as beams of sunlight shone through the trees, creating a mystical setting and I half expected Frodo to appear before me.

After clambering over steel wire bridges and relaxing in the sun at Back Valley hut, we then set off for a walk around the swamps – although it did feel as though we were walking right through them! The mud was very mushy and nearly everyone left behind a boot at one point! It was quite an adventure jumping across streams, balancing on logs and struggling through off road jungle in an attempt to avoid the muddy path, but it was great. We walked for around five hours that day and ended with a boat ride back to Manapouri.

Having felt that my waterproofs hadn’t worked hard enough, I decided to give them a real test. At the Pop In café at Te Anau, desperate for a hot drink, I ordered a large hot chocolate. Not able to wait, I popped on a lid and started gulping down my lovely, well deserved drink. When I still couldn’t taste it after a few seconds, I looked down to find brown liquid streaming down my jacket and down the insides of both my legs. In my rush to get the hot drink into my cold body, I hadn’t put the lid on properly and therefore unknowingly became the test dummy for Outside Sports waterproof jacket and pants. They worked!

This trip is perfect for adventurous types who prefer to be away from big crowds. We only saw two other people on our trek. There is a list of essential items on the Adventure Walks website. Backpacks and gaiters (things that strap around your calves to protect them from scratches and not the things that swim in rivers and bite you) can be rented from Andy. The rest of your gear can be rented from Outside Sports and is excellent quality, as I proved!


Trips can be booked through both the Queenstown YHA’s. For more information, check out the website: www.adventurewalks.co.nz

The good, the bad and the bumpy

There have been some truly excellent ideas born in Queenstown and when Shotover Jet and Nomad Safaris announced they were joining forces to create a jet boat /4WD combo this was definitely a good idea. Two highly professional adventure companies teamed together to create the package ‘Essential Queenstown’, and when they offered me the chance to sample this new activity, of course I jumped at the chance!

What’s also a good idea in Queenstown is to hit the town with your workmates. There’s nothing like a good night out scouring bars in search of fun and trying to prove that it’s not all about hard work.

What’s bad, however, is waking up the next day and remembering that you let a person with a passion for Facebook film you ‘shake your booty better than Beyonce’ (several times just to prove a point). What’s slightly worse is that in spite of the invisible hammer banging on your head, you also remember that you booked yourself on an Essential Queenstown trip.

And so it was with dark sunglasses and aching hips that I turned up to meet my fresh faced friend Anna at the Shotover Jet check in point. A short ride out of town, we reached the banks of the river. It was a balmy day and the sun beat down and sparkled upon the ripples of the fast flowing water. A vast expanse of turquoise stretched and flowed through the mouth of a large canyon creating a breathtaking view.

All passengers were provided with long black splash coats that came in one size fits all (including elephants) and chunky red lifejackets that made looking cool completely impossible. Once in the boat, we were given a quick lesson in ‘how not to fall into the water’ and then we were off.
Bumping across the water, we laughed out loud as our bums bounced off the padded seats. Zooming through the canyon, Anna turned to me with a worried look.

“Oo, I’m a bit scared!” She announced.

What a wimp, I thought to myself.

“Scared?” I replied confidently. “Scared of wha….aaaaaaaa.”

A scream of fear shot from my lungs as I watched the boat lurch towards the towering canyon walls and miss by an inch. The driver turned around, obviously used to a boat full of wailing banshees and gave us a quick smirk.

The rest of the ride went like this: stunning scenery, funny bumpy ride, scary wall, scary wall far too close, screams, funny bumpy ride, 360 spin, screams, why ‘eight’ gin and tonics?

After escaping from the boat with half my hair matted to my face, we were met by a friendly driver in a big jeep who drove us out to Arrowtown to begin the second part of the trip.

This included several exciting crossings through the crystal clear waters of the Arrow River as we watched large trout swim past the wheels. We drove across steep ridges that looked down into lush valley whilst the driver told us tales about the gold mining era and then stopped off for some hot tea and home-make cake.

After this refreshing break, we went down to the river for a spot of gold panning. I was extremely proud to be the finder of the biggest piece of gold and posed for a picture with my precious nugget. Admittedly, the ‘nugget’ could have passed for a mere flake of dandruff but that wasn’t the sort of detail I needed to share with those not present!

On the ride back, our guide pointed out the places where Lord of the Rings had been filmed and although I’m not the most excitable, sword bearing fan, I did find what he told us quite fascinating.

Towards the end of the trip, I realized that Anna had been rather quiet. When I turned around I found her clutching her chest as we bumped up and down across huge rocks.

“Oh no, are you OK?” I asked, trying not to laugh.

“Hmm, it’s a bit bumpy in the back!” She said with a frown.

So there it is, Essential Queenstown. It’s a good trip, bad with a hangover and very bumpy. My words of advice: avoid G & T’s the night before and for girls in particular, wear a sports bra!

This trip can be booked at both the YHA Queenstown Central and YHA Queenstown Lakefront. Check out the websites: www.shotoverjet.com or www.nomadsafaris.co.nz

Magical Mount Cook

My adventure to Mount Cook started in Queenstown with a frantic run to catch my Great Sights bus whilst carrying a 20kg backpack and trying to ram a nut bar down my throat for breakfast. After reaching the terminal looking like a squirrel that’d been harvesting food, I was told that the bus I’d been chasing was actually on its way to Milford Sounds.

An hour later, the embarrassing incident forgotten, I was happily gazing out at the gorgeous scenery whilst a friendly bus driver told us fantastic facts about the places we passed. Great Sights buses have big comfortable seats and large windows that ensure every customer has a wonderful view. A Japanese assistant is always on board to translate the driver’s commentaries.

Driving up to the Mount Cook village was magnificent. A gigantic sea of mist had filled a vast lake, obscuring its turquoise surface and poured over the tall green pines. In this mystical setting, the driver told us the Maori tale of Aoraki. Four brothers had overturned their canoe on a reef in the ocean and there they froze to form the South Island, their warrior bodies creating the lofty peaks of New Zealand’s tallest mountain.

YHA Mount Cook is the only hostel in the village. I was overjoyed to be given a warm, cozy room that looked out on to stunning snowcapped mountains. In line with the tiny town atmosphere, this friendly, welcoming hostel is a peaceful retreat that has excellent facilities and very affordable accommodation.

I wasted no time at all in getting to the visitor centre which not only is a source of necessary information to the casual walker, but is also full of historical artifacts and true tales of alpine adventures. Before long, I was on my way to Kea Point (2 hours return). Under a stunning blue sky and a fierce bold sun, I plastered myself in factor 45 suntan cream then set off looking like a Geisha tramper.

At the viewpoint, the amazing snowy ranges of Sefton and Cook looked like they were covered in soft chunks of nougat and large lumps of thickly iced Turkish delight that tumbled down the mountain. Enormous glaciers curved around rocky mounds forming huge blue ridges. A grumbling avalanche broke off in the distance and brought smiles to the faces of the visitors who stood there, awestruck by the beauty and intensity of the moment.

The next day, I was treated to a trip with Glacier Explorers. This three hour adventure involves a short bus journey with a guide who gives a full commentary about the surrounding areas, a 1km walk through rocky terrain and an hour boat ride around the Tasman Glacier. Most of its great mass has broken off and juts out from the frosty waters in spectacular hunks of 300 year old frozen water. A gigantic moraine wall provides a stunning backdrop to these eerie ice age remnants.

With a grey sky looming, the next place I headed was the planetarium and museum. This is situated in the Hermitage hotel; the ominous grey building that dominates the village. With a tremendous interest in the stars and space, I headed first to the dome shaped cinema to watch a film about black holes. It was an amazing display of animation that had me wishing that Stephen Hawkings was my travel partner so he could kindly explain a thing or two. I was then handed a pair of coloured glasses and looking like Clark Kent’s cousin, watched a 3D movie about Mount Cook. This was absolutely mind-blowing and is a must in my book!

The perfect end to my trip was a morning walk up the Red Tarns track. A one-hour up-hill hike, this definitely requires a good level of fitness. As I sat alone on a large plateau, I was rewarded by the soft sounds of trickling water, the twitter and hum of wildlife and the delicate crashing of distant avalanches. Mount Cook reflected her twin peaks in the lake before me, instilling a sense of calm that stayed with me throughout the day.

Check out http://www.glacierexplorers.com/ for more information. Trips can be booked through YHA Mount Cook. Great Sights can be booked at any YHA!

Lady of the Lake

Now I wouldn’t say I was the sort of person who made up stories but when I first heard the expression ‘Lady of the Lake’, my overactive imagination somehow got the better of me. In a town steeped in Maori legend, I’ve spent the last two years gazing up at a particular mountain which to me was ‘the lady’ gazing down into a valley of tears – ‘the lake’.

Imagine my surprise then when I found out that this lady was less of a snowcapped mound and more of a ‘mini Titanic’ – namely the TSS Earnslaw. Sounding like something you’d put with your salad, this old vessel was responsible for the many near heart attacks it had given me with its vigorous tooting as it cruised across the rippled waters of the Lake Wakatipu. “I’d never be seen dead on that thing” I’d often say as I walked past it.

And that statement turned out to be true. I was very much alive when I boarded this amazing floating museum. “How beautiful is this!” I gushed to my friend Steve, as we stood on deck sipping Gin and Tonics in the cool breeze, setting sail for Walter Peak. After a few unsuspected toots followed by a few expletives, I had to admit I was rather excited about the journey ahead.
TSS Earnslaw is a coal-fired, passenger carrying steamship that hasn’t changed since taking to the waters of Queenstown in 1912. It is the only surviving steamer that worked on the Lake Wakatipu and is the largest and grandest of them all.

In the mid-section of the boat, stokers shovel coal into the original boilers at a rate of one tonne per hour. This part of the boat also offers welcoming warmth from cold and with this in mind I headed inside to take a peek. The smell of the burning coal and the rapidly pounding machinery flung me back in time and as I stood staring down at the stokers, I was overcome with an urge to join them in an Irish jig.
“Rose!” A voice was calling me. I looked up and saw Jack…I mean Steve.
“Sue” he looked at me in worried concern. “We’re here!”

Walter Peak farm is stunning. Pulling up to the crystal clear shores at dusk with the sound of lapping water really is unforgettable. We were met on the jetty by an enthusiastic guide who walked us through fully bloomed gardens and herded us into a prettily lit restaurant.
The TSS Earnslaw floated serenely in the bay, strung in coloured lights with majestic mountains as her backdrop.

As we entered the old fashioned dining room, a pianist played as a mature audience passed by with a chorus of ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’, though I’m inclined to believe that this was in appreciation of the huge buffet rather than the nimble skills of the musician.

After Gideon the waiter had served us our soup, we were finally allowed to be let loose on the food. Not one for dieting, I chose two huge lamb shanks that melted in my mouth and a big plate of vegetables and potatoes. I couldn’t resist trying the venison stew and I finished off my meal with a gigantic piece of passion fruit pavlova, reminiscent of the iceberg that took out the titanic.

After dinner, we headed outside for the farm show where an experienced shearer entertained us with his two sheep dogs, the full shearing of a fat fluffy sheep and a tiny lamb called Roger who caused more ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhs’ than the buffet.

The journey back was fantastic. Armed with songbooks, we gathered around a pianist and crooned out old songs, steaming up the windows with tunes of joy. Steve listened in dismay as I ‘packed up my troubles in my old kit bag’ and ‘went to Tipperary’ in a high pitched voice that would be completely unfitting in any other place than on the Earnslaw.

The next day, I received a dismayed text from Steve who had apparently burst out of a line of ‘roll out the barrel’ whilst working on site alongside his fellow builders. Be warned non singers, the Lady of the Lake will cast its spell and ensure you’ll ‘meet again, some sunny day’.
The trips are run by Real Journeys and bookings can be made at both Queenstown YHA’s. Go to www.realjourneys.co.nz for more information.

Mid-Air Matters

Living in Queenstown gives you a somewhat different perspective of life and I realized this on the run up to my 35th birthday. Heading fast into a quarter life crisis I naturally thought about the things I had not yet achieved. Whilst I lay in bed tossing and turning about the house I hadn’t bought and the fact that Mr. Right still hadn’t come along, I couldn’t help but think of two apparently more urgent matters…I had not yet done a Bungy or Skydived from 15,000 feet!
The following morning, NZONE and AJ Hackett sensed my panic over the phone and pulled out all the stops to get me hurtling through air ASAP. I wiped the sweat from my brow.

Driving out to the drop zone I continued to wipe the sweat from my brow and began to wonder why on earth I was so desperate to be propelled through 15,000 feet of freezing cold air.

Before I could change my mind, I was told to slip into something less comfortable; a space-cum-jump-suit with a harness strapped tightly between my legs; and was whisked off for some lessons and how to look like a banana (the classic jumping-out-of a plane position for those of us without a degree in skydiving).

Crammed into the back of a tiny plane with five other people, we began our ascent to the sun. “Yahay!! Say something into the camera” an over-excited girl with a video camera told me. Yahay, I thought. I would if my mouth wasn’t devoid of saliva.

Now, I’m not saying that tandem instructors are sneaky, but how I ended up getting from sitting safely at the back of the plane to my legs dangling over tiny green fields in a small doorway, I have no idea. What followed is hard to describe.
Freefalling towards some of the worlds’ most stunning scenery whilst the bat-girl with the camera just ahead of you is trying to get you to smile is way up there in the surreal stakes. Let me also tell you that trying to breathe whilst a hundred mile an hour a wind is trying to enter your brain via your nostrils is also quite strange.

After a sudden jolt which has your legs flying up towards your face and making you wish you’d done more yoga (the opening of the parachute), the last part of the skydive has you floating peacefully to the ground. In the words of Starsky and Hutch, all I can say about skydiving is ‘Do it!’.

The thing that I like about the Kawarau Bungy is that it tricks you. The scenery here is so beautiful that your mind is temporarily taken away from the fact that you are about to dive 43 metres head-first towards a rushing river with nothing but a rubbery cord attached to your ankles. I even convinced myself I wasn’t nervous and bounded up to the bridge with great poise.

My poise was instantly shattered of course with the chorus of wind-ups that I received from the boys on the bridge. “So Sue, shall we dip you up to your waist or just your whole head?” Mark the jump-master taunted. I quickly learnt that bravado wasn’t a good thing when it came to such mid-air matters and so I endeavored to try the scaredy-cat approach. “No don’t!” I wailed. “I’m scared of water. Please don’t dip me”.

I’m not sure if it was my awful acting skills but when I shuffled up to the tiny platform and looked down towards my fate, Mark had convinced me that I ‘would be dipped’ like a cracker. And so, with a face that wouldn’t look out of place on an episode of Wallace and Gromit, I threw myself off the bridge screaming like a banshee.Thankfully, I wasn’t subjected to an icy dip and came out of the experience as dry as bone (save the tears of joy that ran down my cheeks).

Hanging upside down, I was pulled into a small boat where I was unclipped then bombed it up the steps to my friends, brimming with a ton of adrenalin and a high that would last for days. Both companies have years of experience and are highly professional. Make your bookings at the YHA Queenstown Central or Lakefront and see what discounts we offer!